This could go in carved baits, 3D printed baits, or here in resin baits, but I don't see the need to make the same post more than once.
As some of you may know I currently sell one aluminum mold for making cast resin crank baits. (USE MOLD RELEASE)
What you may not know is I have been working on a couple other designs. I've also been working on a simple and somewhat obvious method of getting better resin pours when it thickens up with additives like color powders, and floating additives.
However, this post is about clear coat. The final clear coat is the first line of defense against rocks, teeth, and branches. Except for my mini crank I've never really been a hard bait maker before.
I have used plain old 2 part clear epoxy. Its okay, and as long as it doesn't sit out in the sun it will remain waterproof. If you are a boat builder you know that epoxy generally is NOT UV resistant. Its thick, hard to apply and my shop on a hot summer day I don't get much pot life. Even with the longer cure 30 minute epoxies. I get 5-10 minutes where it applies decently.
I have ordered some True Glide (also an epoxy) that has started to get some popularity among hard bait makers for its over all toughness, but some retained flexibility. The owner of the company has contacted me with some tips about its practical use.
Epoxies if applied properly take about 24hrs to fully cure. One of the keys is allowing them to start to kick before spreading them in a thin layer. They don't generate enough heat to cure properly in a thin cross section. The owner of Trueglide Lures told me I should thoroughly mix his product for about a minute, and then wait about 5 minutes before brushing it onto products. He says at 70F you should have about 20 minutes pot life.
I have some KBS Diamond on order as well. I forget its exact chemical formulation, but basically its a paint on clear. It requires about a week to fully cure. It also requires an optimum temperature range, and higher humidity than I typically have here in the desert, but if the finished coating is tough enough it may be worth it.
Another coating that I'll be trying in the future is UV coated clear coats like SolarZ. Its supposed to be fully cured in minutes when exposed to UV light. The speed of full cure is what appeal to me about this one. My son has done 3D resin printing with UV finish resins, so we have UV lights, but around here just taking them outside should provide plenty of UV radiation.
What has you experience been?
What finish coats do you use?
What are the reasons you picked for your last process and first line of defense?
Are you going to do any testing with cheap over the counter stuff like clear spray paint?
Yes. I'm not going to buy every possible clear, but I'll probably try some like Krylon Clear High Gloss.
Also for the depth of knowledge please post about anything you are using.